Wednesday, 1 December 2010

A Dogs Life -

Im currently in paris on another photo shoot.
some news came to me yesterday that my dog had to be put down.
to here this whilst being alone was very sad.
after sharing 15 years with a dog, you bind a connection, you understand it and get to know its personality, even though its not human. 
shady was 15, she lived a long and happy life on our farm, chasing sheep, horses, badgers and any other animals she could snout out. 
we’re all gona miss you shades......... r.i.p







 especially sunny ladkins ...
and treacle dog .

Friday, 22 October 2010

Seasons Come And Go -


The end of summer has come,
say goodbye tot he cornish sun.

The rush or tourists from west to east,
leaving us with the very least.

Fear not the fish are still swarming,
the taste of sea bass is still very warming

A cold breeze breaks the stem of the old brown leaves.

clocks go back darkness dominates.
collect the logs for those long nights in.

Not long now the christmas spirit will soon begin.

Winter swells have just begun,
all surfers are on the run.

Snowy hills, Icy lakes,
hope my new van has trusting brakes.

The whistling kettle never seems to stop.
Warm your cockles on the uk’s finest crop.

Crisp and clear, do not fear,
easter is on its way,
summer is near.

If only it went this fast,
us surfers may be able to last.

Still we plough through, with a sigh of relief,
leaving winter behind, with nothing but grief. 










Friday, 15 October 2010

Parnassus surroundings -

I was invited to do the rip curl, wct trials in Peniche, Portugal 
The waves were lambasting. 
The vibe was intense.
To come 3rd was an achievement, but to be so close to surfing against the guys that i have looked up to since i started was demoralizing. 
Surfing with the best guys in the world has given me faith that there is still light at the end of the tunnel. 
Its only a few steps away, fame, glory,money !!!
But to be honest it doesn’t seem like the be all and end all. I think i would prefer to be underground just come out every now and then and do what i do, shame it doesn’t really work like that. You need to have a certain style or personality to achieve that lifestyle. 

I seen some stuff down there that really put my thoughts into perspective, stuff in which is normally covered up by the media. I’ll tell stories in person, but to blog it on the internet would be indecent. 









Sunday, 5 September 2010

Home Sweet Home -

After a long 10 days of small, summer surf in france, i yet again arrive home to the amazing sight, of the refreshing landscape in which i call home



words - Tori  - Ok so when someone says you can’t do something, no matter if their older, wiser or stronger, you should never let them make that decision for you. Unfortunately from my own knowledge so far of life, and how it works, which isn’t allot as am only 18. But I have never been more aware of things u need written on paper to get places and past certain levels in life, people relying on impressions, expectations and security created by dare say it but ‘money’. Rather then the highest perfection of intellectual nature lies in a careful and constant pursuit of true and solid happiness. Even if happiness forgets you a little bit, never completely forget about it. . .
As it’s the most important thing to your life wherever, whatever, or whoever you are or trying to be. 






A few days of camping with my best friends puts everything into prospective. blessed with the end of summer sunshine, the purity and secret nudist beaches of the southwest tip, frowns upon the rest of the world.


Sunday, 4 July 2010

Here, There, Everywhere -

Since the English champs i have been to portugal for a photo shoot for rip curl. Then straight to newcastle for a competition, that was canceled due to small surf. After that i spent a few days at home spear fishing and barbecuing,
the weather was amazingly sunny for several days. I am now returning from another photo shoot for rip curl’s online shop, in Paris.

its been a busy month to say the least. I went to Paris with an open eye to explore the beautiful city that it is and an eye opener it was. to get to work i walked passed many of homeless people on the streets, i traveled on the metro. the constant rush of people blurred my vision, the tall building left be gazing into the sky. some afternoons i had free time. I bought a day pass on the underground and checked out as many tourist attraction as i could, the eiffel tower, Chans a lise, the arc de triomphe. It was nice to spend some time alone to just think about things, but it did get lonely, i just wanted to speak to anyone, but the language barrier was difficult. i had one friend in paris. her name Annabelle, we met for drinks after work and soaked the last of the sunshine in a park located in monceau. towards the end i really needed to go home. 5 days away from the sea is long enough for me, i felt claustrophobic, but an experience it was and another place to tick of the list. 











Thursday, 1 July 2010

Seychelles -



is paradise really what its made out to be   ?
white sand,palm trees, warm, transparent sea, exotic fruits,coconut, papaya. its a dream, that everyone wishes to live. 
in my eyes the grass is always greener on the other side.   











when your sitting in the air conditioned airplane looking out the window upon lush green forest surrounded by a few miles of golden sand, you think WOW, my dream is about to become true. But  reality hits as soon as you take the first step of the plane. you first feel the moist humidity that hits you, like opening the door of a sauna, you start to sweat within minutes. don’t get me wrong after coming from mid winter in england there’s nothing better than feeling that heat, but after a few days it becomes uncomfortably hot, you realize you cant sleep, unless you have air-con. after a week of surfing the rash on you belly becomes unbearable the sand gets between you and your board, paddling becomes a chore. you get your fist cut from the razor sharp coral, within 3 days you cant walk, infection kicks in. or you carry on surfing and it turns into a gaping hole. you try to rest on the beach and watch your mates surf, within 2 minutes your covered in sand fly’s, horse fly’s or mosquitos.  I’m going to stop there cause i don’t want to sound like a spoilt, pessimistic, dream destroyer, but i’m sure every surfer knows what i’m talking about. 
luckily enough for me i didn’t get an infection or a gaping wound on this trip to the seychelles and the previous cut on my foot, that left me stranded on land for 2 weeks, healed up just in time. 

I would say the seychelles was by far the most beautiful place i’ve visited so far. the surf is there, finding it with the right swell,wind, tide on the right island is a different matter, but there is defiantly big potential. we found some fun waves, that looked like on there day could be unbelievable. I came to the conclusion that the best way to visit the Seychelles is bye boat, staying on land is expensive, especially the privately owned islands. buy yourself a boat and sail around the 115 islands that make up the seychelles and i promise you will find some amazing waves that have never been ridden. 

- Our Search sum up edit wins - London Surf Film festival -

Thanks to the talented Mr Luke Pilbeam The Our Search sum up edit has gone and won the London surf film festival for the best short of 2014...