Winter In Ireland -

This winter will be a massive change for me.

I have decided to venture to the cold instead of the warm.

These waves have been on my door step my whole life, but only now i have decided to take advantage of them.

I’m over trying to fight for waves in warmer climates, the hassle and localism is a little to much. Surfing maybe a lot harder in the freezing cold conditions, but i’m ready to face it.

Lyndon wake and i have been preparing for this winter, all summer,

the organisation has been non stop from sponsorship to photographers . I cant actually believe that i’m finally out here now, writing my first blog . 

 With 2 weeks gone and some amazing waves under our belt already, also comes some pretty horrible beatings, but nothing to serious as yet. To be honest everything is going pretty smooth.

 Thanks to yamaha sorting us out with a deal on a new wave runner jet ski. we will be able to tow waves that we haven’t yet experienced.

I’m so excited about getting some of the biggest barrels of my life. I have never driven a jet ski before, but Lyndon has, so he is going to show me the ropes. i think a good driver is almost as important as a good surfer. So far we have had a couple of sessions in 8 to 10ft waves, at the start i was terrible at towing lyndon in and was pretty much shitting myself that i was going to write the ski off. After a few goes i soon got the hang of  it and felt comfortable.

I really want to learn how to paddle big waves this winter as well. I thinks its really important to know how to paddle before towing. Its almost a completely different sport . Its 1 thing being able to grab hold of a rope and launch yourself into the right part of the wave. and another using your own strength to get down the face of the wave and maintain the speed to make it out. 

So far we have had 2 good days out of 2 weeks, The wind has been howling on shore most days. we have driven up and down the coast looking for sheltered spots, but theres only so much driving you can do before turning into a mental case and hatting all the music you have on your ipod. 

We have a sweet house in bundoran, county donegal, surrounded by waves,  now its just a waiting game until they all turn on.  

I’m not here to prove anything to myself or anyone else, I’m here for a change of scene and a taste of some of the best waves in the world

https://vimeo.com/34075914

Summer fun -

So, the Mentawais was an interesting trip. It took us a few days and night to get there but it was worth it, as you can see from the picture above and below.

I think we got pretty lucky with 1 of the first solid swells of the season i’ve never really experienced waves like it. was quite blown away really, especially as i had the shits  the whole time. Pretty devastating when your looking at waves of such calibre and thinking, ummmmm ok i might drown due to fatigue and lack of energy in my body, but fuck it least if i shit myself the fish will have a nice dinner .....

 The waves on this day were out of control, from perfect rights to perfect lefts, i couldn’t believe what i was seeing and about to surf. It wasn’t just the fact that it was pumping, there was also only a few guys out, now theres something you don’t see these days.

 Even the small days were really fun, but sometimes crowded, with a few charter boats around. We stayed on pei pei island, with a friendly family that have just started up there surf camp. http://www.mentawai-surfcamp.com/  

 Don’t think the action stopped there !!!!    

 this was only the start of the summer. when i arrived home after the wqs in scotland, france and the epic journey to the Mentawais, i was pretty content with just chilling and catching up on myself . But chilling is not what happened, well maybe for a few days. 

Summer in cornwall is my comfort zone and i was caught right in the middle of it. 

There was also some good fishing this summer don’t worry vegetarians or animal lovers, i eat everything i catch. I only kill fish when i’m hungry and appreciate all the goodness and omega that fish give to us humans......

and allot of festival appearances, reading  being the highlight of them all, thanx to relentless energy sorting the boys out with free gust tickets . 

Oh i did surf through out the summer as well, but i thought i might as well just share the fun parts of life with you guys, after all that is what life is all about.... isn’t it ?   

https://vimeo.com/26598884

A year down the line _the tropics_

from cold to warm, theres no escape from the storm.

its wet season again in bali,

hot, humid days, stormy nights.

There's good and evil here, its taken me a few trips back and forth to  figure this crazy place out.

theres no doubt about it i love it here, the waves, the temperature, the religion, but i've heard stories about bali 20-30 years ago, and can only imagine how beautiful and pure the island was before it was invaded by people like myself, westerners.

In my short visit 

this time i managed to schedule in my normal escape to lakey peak for 3 weeks. The waves were fun as per usual. 

we had 2 swells whilst i was  there. A week into it i found out some bad news about the small town, that relies on surfers passing through. Westerners have traced gold in the forest about a mile inland from lakeys. They have the rights to dig and destroy miles of land surrounding lakeys. Locals are protesting in the the closest city about an hour away, but what they don't understand is that money talks,  not just in indonesia, but anywhere in the world. 

If more gold is found lakeys will be destroyed, the quant surfing paradise in which it once was will be taken over by the indulgent western world.

bali can only go one way now and we all know where this path leads.

money, money, money, thats what its all about.

Which leads to an increase of structure, traffic, fumes, greed and a decrease in natural beauty.

https://vimeo.com/21596860

Fuerteventura -

Fuerteventura for me has always been a special place. Since the age of 10 it has been a quick and easy winter retreat for my family and friends. 

the waves never seem to fail us. without a doubt i woulds say its in my top 3 surf destinations.

only a four hour flight south on the same longitude and you arrive on this baron, moon like, volcanic landscape. named the canaries.

 - lobos -

The chart looked amazing we booked 4 days before flying. from day 1 the surf was relentless 

we surfed this wave 5 days in a row sometimes 3 sessions a day. it was unbelievable, every time we rocked up to see consistent perfection, the excitement would take over the tiredness.

 every night we would eat like kings and watch the constant flood of tourism flow through the streets with a scoop of ice cream. I find it weird that most of these people look over at lobos not knowing what goes on over there, on that flicker of white water, that rolls smoothly down the mountain side.

https://vimeo.com/19237543

Images - nick pumphrey