This winter will be a massive change for me.
I have decided to venture to the cold instead of the warm.
These waves have been on my door step my whole life, but only now i have decided to take advantage of them.
I’m over trying to fight for waves in warmer climates, the hassle and localism is a little to much. Surfing maybe a lot harder in the freezing cold conditions, but i’m ready to face it.
Lyndon wake and i have been preparing for this winter, all summer,
the organisation has been non stop from sponsorship to photographers . I cant actually believe that i’m finally out here now, writing my first blog .
With 2 weeks gone and some amazing waves under our belt already, also comes some pretty horrible beatings, but nothing to serious as yet. To be honest everything is going pretty smooth.
Thanks to yamaha sorting us out with a deal on a new wave runner jet ski. we will be able to tow waves that we haven’t yet experienced.
I’m so excited about getting some of the biggest barrels of my life. I have never driven a jet ski before, but Lyndon has, so he is going to show me the ropes. i think a good driver is almost as important as a good surfer. So far we have had a couple of sessions in 8 to 10ft waves, at the start i was terrible at towing lyndon in and was pretty much shitting myself that i was going to write the ski off. After a few goes i soon got the hang of it and felt comfortable.
I really want to learn how to paddle big waves this winter as well. I thinks its really important to know how to paddle before towing. Its almost a completely different sport . Its 1 thing being able to grab hold of a rope and launch yourself into the right part of the wave. and another using your own strength to get down the face of the wave and maintain the speed to make it out.
So far we have had 2 good days out of 2 weeks, The wind has been howling on shore most days. we have driven up and down the coast looking for sheltered spots, but theres only so much driving you can do before turning into a mental case and hatting all the music you have on your ipod.
We have a sweet house in bundoran, county donegal, surrounded by waves, now its just a waiting game until they all turn on.
I’m not here to prove anything to myself or anyone else, I’m here for a change of scene and a taste of some of the best waves in the world
