Monday 5 September 2011

Summer fun -

So, the Mentawais was an interesting trip. It took us a few days and night to get there but it was worth it, as you can see from the picture above and below.
I think we got pretty lucky with 1 of the first solid swells of the season i’ve never really experienced waves like it. was quite blown away really, especially as i had the shits  the whole time. Pretty devastating when your looking at waves of such calibre and thinking, ummmmm ok i might drown due to fatigue and lack of energy in my body, but fuck it least if i shit myself the fish will have a nice dinner .....



 The waves on this day were out of control, from perfect rights to perfect lefts, i couldn’t believe what i was seeing and about to surf. It wasn’t just the fact that it was pumping, there was also only a few guys out, now theres something you don’t see these days.

 Even the small days were really fun, but sometimes crowded, with a few charter boats around. We stayed on pei pei island, with a friendly family that have just started up there surf camp. http://www.mentawai-surfcamp.com/  
 Don’t think the action stopped there !!!!    
 this was only the start of the summer. when i arrived home after the wqs in scotland, france and the epic journey to the Mentawais, i was pretty content with just chilling and catching up on myself . But chilling is not what happened, well maybe for a few days. 
Summer in cornwall is my comfort zone and i was caught right in the middle of it. 

There was also some good fishing this summer don’t worry vegetarians or animal lovers, i eat everything i catch. I only kill fish when i’m hungry and appreciate all the goodness and omega that fish give to us humans......

and allot of festival appearances, reading  being the highlight of them all, thanx to relentless energy sorting the boys out with free gust tickets . 

Oh i did surf through out the summer as well, but i thought i might as well just share the fun parts of life with you guys, after all that is what life is all about.... isn’t it ?   






- Our Search sum up edit wins - London Surf Film festival -

Thanks to the talented Mr Luke Pilbeam The Our Search sum up edit has gone and won the London surf film festival for the best short of 2014...