So shit got a bit crazy out in Ireland before christmas. For sure the biggest waves i’ve ever surfed.
Was i ready for it, probably not, but how could you let that swell pass with out giving it a go.
Lyndon was amped and so was I.
we were the first ones in the water, it was still a bit messy, but we started towing anyway, i towed lyndon into a few beauties, a little nervous, to say the least, but everything was going smoothly.
It was my turn, the wind started to blow offshore, I had a couple under my belt, my heart was pumping and adrenaline flowing. I wanted to go deeper and get the barrel of my life.
as we were sitting out back chatting away, like frothing grommets on a 2ft beach break, suddenly these lumps appeared on the horizon, “you ready big dick” shouts Lyndon. “ I think so” i said.
Next thing i know i’m flying down a 20 -25ft wave, thinking holly shizenburg, this thing is a beast, i was to deep, i tried to get more speed by going to the top of the wave and accelerating down it, as i got to the bottom of the wave it felt like slow motion, everything just slowed down, i lost all my speed, either that or the wave was just going a hell of a lot faster than i was. I didn’t make it into the pit, tons of water piled down on me, square on the head. It launched me in the air, i was wait less for about 3-5 seconds and then the giant washing machine turned on. It frashed me around like a rag doll, ripping my limbs apart, i felt my leg pull in the wrong direction, “ouch that hurt a little” i remember thinking.
I popped up surprisingly fast to see my loyal friend there to save me.
My knee was pretty damaged, i could tell it wasn’t good. Im still waiting on my scan results as i was lazy and didn’t get it done straight away. But 2 months down the line now and i’m surfing again. very cautiously, but its nice to get back in the water. was it worth it ............. of course it was.
